Ip Based Security Systems

Ip Based Security Systems – A few years ago, my wife and I decided to equip ourselves with a CCTV security system. We didn’t know much about home security or security cameras at the time. But we wanted to see him at home while we were away.

If we weren’t crazy about DIY, we would have chosen the easy DIY route and bought an all-in-one home security kit from Ring or Simplisafe.

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But we felt uncomfortable for these brands storing our videos on the cloud, especially content videos. Cloud-based security cameras were hacked left, right and center. Some even gave it to the police without permission! Additionally, many useful features of these cameras, such as advanced motion detection, are locked behind monthly paid subscription plans. Even basic features like the ability to review recorded clips, you would expect to be offered.

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So while forward rates seemed low, running costs would quickly rise. This is the decline of the subscription-based business model that many security camera companies are turning to these days. Don’t get me wrong, cloud storage is great and works just as well as offsite backup. But it is not allowed to push it down our throats and make us pay.

But we are people who love DIY and technology, we decided to do it ourselves – in the ProDIY way, learning by doing, using the best standalone IP camera (like Reolink E1 Pro) and high quality prosumer networking. but affordable. equipment (such as Ubiquiti’s Unifi range).

Today, we have a DIY CCTV home security camera system that we have chosen and installed ourselves based on months of research. It’s ultra-reliable and has great features like full compatibility with our Home Assistant and HomeSeer HS4 home automation system, but it’s very expensive.

We often get questions about our DIY CCTV setup, such as how we can view our home security cameras safely from anywhere on the ground. So we thought we’d share our journey with you, our readers.

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We list our complete security camera setup and how we can safely and securely connect to our home from anywhere. Once again we will go into a list of not only the different tools that make up the system, but also how they come together to help us achieve our security goals.

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Here is a picture of how we see our IP camera from our laptops and on TV:

We can also access cameras from our phones using the smallCAM Monitor Pro app or QNAP’s VMobile app to access clips from NVR NAS (Network Attached Storage).

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Whenever it is detected by any IP camera, the QNAP NAS notifies our Assistant home automation system which can then turn on the lights, sound the siren alarm, send me video clips, whatever really comes to mind.

I used to only use HomeSeer HS3 in the past and then connected QNAP Surveillance Station directly to my Homeseer HS3 system. QNAP QVR Pro has not yet been released.

But I’ve changed a lot from Homeseer to Home Helper since then. I only use Homeseer for some legacy Z-Wave door sensors that don’t work with Home Assistant. In addition, both QNAP QVR Pro and Home Assistant support advanced modes to view IP cameras natively. Eventually I’m going to write how-to guides to review the entire setup of my smart home system.

Now let’s see what the security camera system part of our smart home network looks like (also see how we built a DIY smart home automation system)

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A topology represents the way a system is connected. The network topology can be physical or logical. The physical network topology shows the actual layout of the project and the connections between the different elements. The topology of the logical network shows how they are connected to each other.

Here is a physical map of the entire smart home network. For a reliable and scalable monitoring system, you need to have the correct network configuration to support it. So let’s start there.

The first thing you will notice is that there are many different network components, and that the devices are well immersed in the clean rooms (LAN, VLAN1, VLAN2 … etc).

Most people just plug a Wi-Fi router into an ISP modem and call it a day. If you’re only using a couple of wireless cameras, that’s possible.

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But for our security and privacy focused Pro-DIY system, we need to go further. We need to be able to protect our network from hackers and botnets. For this we need a strong and powerful hardware firewall.

We need to be able to isolate security cameras so they can’t “call home” or leak data outside our network. Any device in our network that we don’t trust (like many Chinese security cameras) shouldn’t be able to access personal devices like laptops and cell phones of its own free will. For this we need the ability to create a virtual LAN network (VLAN).

Each consumer Wi-Fi router has a built-in firewall that provides basic security. But they are usually not very customizable. For example, it is not usually possible to create custom firewall rules. And most of them can’t create VLANs. So after playing around with an expensive ASUS “prosumer” router for a while and not getting what I wanted, I switched to standard business networking devices. I chose Ubiquiti’s Unifi range.

We have a big house, and getting reliable Wi-Fi everywhere was a problem. I realized we needed more Wi-Fi access. But the house is already wired for Gigabit Ethernet. So this was another reason to skip consumer-grade mesh networking and go with an established and trusted corporate brand.

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Even when your network is large and you have many devices (routers, switches, access points), it becomes difficult and time-consuming to set up and manage many devices.

The easiest way to understand the Unifi product line is this: A standard Wi-Fi router like Asus or Netgear is an all-in-one device.

There is a router, firewall, and Wi-Fi access point brought together in one device for convenience. However, this means that if you want advanced features, you have to shell out more money.

Also, if one function (such as wireless radios or part of the router) fails, the entire network fails and you have to delete the entire device. Not good for redundancy or your wallet.

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Starting from the top left of the network map, we have a 1 Gbps up / down symmetrical fiber broadband connection. So the first device is an ISP modem which we cannot protect. However, everything after that point is our project.

After the ISP modem comes the Unifi Security Gateway (or USG). This is our hardware firewall, it acts as a DHCP router for the whole network and configures all VLANs. The USG has a 500 MHz Dual-Core processor with 512 MB of RAM. It can handle up to 1,000,000 packets per second. It can handle our 1Gbps fiber broadband connection at full speed, but only without other security features enabled such as Deep Packet Inspection (DPI), Intrusion Detection System (IDS), or Intrusion Prevention System (IPS). If you turn it on, the output drops to a measly 85 Mbps.

That’s why I no longer recommend the Unifi USG. Unifi then released UDM Special Edition (SE) / Pro which combines USG, network switch and cloud management software in one. It is rack mountable and therefore may be more suitable if you plan to use a server rack or cabinet.

UDM SE / Pro can perform intrusion detection and prevention up to a line speed of 3.5Gbps, which is much faster than the USG’s 85Mbps. But for home users, these features aren’t important, so the USG might be enough if you’re on a budget.

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A key difference between the UDM SE and UDM Pro models is that the SE has PoE support. This eliminates the need for a separate PoE switch.

The ISP modem connects to the WAN1 port of the USG (WAN port in UDM SE / Pro). The USG has only two physical LAN ports: LAN1 and LAN2 (the SE / Pro UDM has 8). Each channel can be used to create a unique subnet. I only use the USG’s LAN1 port for my network – I’ll call it LAN. The Unifi system uses a central management portal for all project configurations and logs. The SE / Pro UDM has this built in, but the USG does not. So you will have to run it from a computer but only if you need to update the devices.

So you can see why it is better to use UDM SE. If you still want to use the (cheaper) USG, you can get a Cloud Key, a small PoE device that manages the controller software and records network numbers locally 24/7. I don’t need a fully functional computer

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